Eastwards Through the 'Middle Level'

This railway bridge at Peterborough was to take us into completely new territory. The mysteries of the Middle Level awaited us, our first real encounter with Fenland waterways. Looking on the map, we had seen the many miles of the Great Ouse and all its tributaries, but the only way through from the rest of the canal system was to follow the route we had taken, down the Northampton Arm of the Grand Union to the Nene at Northampton, then down the Nene to Peterborough and now off the Nene and onto the Middle Level. There is a plan to join the Great Ouse at Bedford to the Grand Union at Milton Keynes - they are very close, so it's logical enough! In the meantime, we needed to take the scenic route!

The Middle Level has a long and complicated history, largely concerned with land drainage over the centuries but also including boat transport. But we were in for a surprise as soon as we phoned up to arrange to go through Stanground Sluice. Did we know that the lock at Salters Lode (at the other end, joining onto the Great Ouse) was closed, awaiting completion of the new hydraulic sluice gate there? No, that was news to us; how long would it take? Apparently it had been scheduled for completion in December - it was now mid-April, but they thought it should be done in a week or so!

We hadn't planned to do more than just go 'straight through', but we could always dawdle a bit more - a little more recuperation from the 'flu would not go amiss . . .

We soon came to Whittlesey, chugging along well below street level in a narrow concrete-lined channel and then negotiating a tight bend under a bridge. Then it all opened out a bit and we found the moorings next to the Leisure Centre. Nice and quiet, but not too far to walk into town if needed. Also a good rendezvous for our friends Alan and Jan from Blisworth, who had offered to bring out yet another heavy parcel of tools which had arrived late at Sally's house - and Sally and Ellie (her cocker spaniel) came too. It was great to see them all and enjoy a meal together at Whittlesey's Sunshine Cafe. Thanks to you all for your help and friendship!

After a few days there (and the occasional phone call to check progress at Salters Lode), we moved on into real fenland. 'Big skies' we had been told. That's because the land is so flat and there are very few trees! Come to that, the waterways are mostly straight and often a bit below the level of their 'flood banks'. But the weather was warm and sunny, so we didn't mind, finding variety where we could - like these trees, for example!

Back in the 1980s, when we lived in Romford and were wondering where we could find somewhere with some land, we looked at this area (and others) before finally settling on Lapford in Devon. It was a little odd to see the countryside that could have become our own familiar territory over the last 20-odd years. Lovely rich peaty soil here in the fens, but we both agree that Lapford was the right choice for us - Devon clay or not!

After a couple of days moored at March, the news from Salters Lode was getting more hopeful - they hoped to have the lock operational on the Thursday, which would mean a 7.30 am 'locking-through' time to catch the tide right on the Great Ouse. If we left it until the Friday, we would go through about an hour later. That seemed a bit better and gave us time for a leisurely cruise, as well as allowing for the possibility that all would NOT go well at the the first attempt!

So we set off, past lots of wind turbines, and on to the twin villages of Upwell and Outwell on the Well Creek. More history and information about this from the Well Creek Trust. To get here, we had climbed UP a level again, having gone DOWN two locks from Peterborough. We realised afresh how much of the fenland lies below high tide level! Even so, as we were travelling along Well Creek, we were still below the level of the two roads either side of us.

A couple of hours cruising brought us to Salters Lode. By now the news was good! Paul the lock keeper was delighted as the first use of the new gate had gone smoothly that morning, so we booked in for 8.30 on Friday morning. Our timing could hardly have been better! We had heard stories of several boaters who had been 'trapped' one side or the other, unable to get either on or off the Great Ouse for months. We had just chugged along and here we were, able to go straight through - Thank You, Father!

So, here it was, the new lock gate/sluice at Salters Lode, with all its new hydraulics and computer controls. Paul was very pleased to have it working again at last but just a little concerned at the potential for the technology to let him down. So far, so good! Only when we looked the other side did we realise how much below high tide level we still were - and the tides were not yet at their highest!

Ready for our next bit of tidal water the next morning, though it would only be about half a mile before we would lock through Denver Sluice onto the (non-tidal) Great Ouse.

Moving Again - At Last !

Five months moored up in Blisworth Marina, and we were really ready to get moving again. Val and Peter there had made us very welcome and looked after 'Zindagi' when we had been away in Devon. In many ways, we had adapted to our different lifestyle there, and it had begun to feel like home, especially with developing friendships in Blisworth village itself, 20 minutes walk away.

In spite of all that, though, once Val's knee was obviously recovering well, we were looking forward to travelling again. David and Mary from Okehampton were planning to join us for a couple of days in early April and we were only booked into the marina till the end of March, so 1st April saw us chugging along to Blisworth village to moor there for a few days before starting off down the Northampton Arm. Just along from our mooring was the first nesting swan that we had seen this year.

So, just a few days later, we started along the Northampton Arm, where we had arranged to meet David and Mary (and Whisk!), courtesy of Mary's brother Ollie giving them a lift to our rendezvous. Soon the old team were working smoothly together again and we made our way quite swiftly down the 13 locks of the Rothersthorpe flight. David and Mary had specially offered to come and help us down this long flight (plus the remaining 4 locks down to join the Nene in Northampton) and we really appreciated it, especially Val, as it meant that she didn't need to be standing at the tiller all the time, putting too much strain on her knees. Thanks, folks, we love having you around - and not just to work through those locks!

After stopping for lunch just on the outskirts of Northampton, we pressed on, leaving the canal and joining the River Nene near the town centre, where we saw our first ducklings of the year, then out the other side into open countryside again, to a pleasant mooring at Cogenhoe (pronounced 'Cook-no') which we remembered from our first trip this way back in 2007.

After a quiet night, we set off again and welcomed Ollie on board, as he was able to join us for a day on the river - a new experience for him, apparently! Laddie, Ollie's rough collie, was not keen on getting on or off the boat, but seemed quite content lying on the back deck while we all managed to avoid treading on him. Meanwhile, Ollie got well and truly 'stuck in', working the locks and taking a turn at the tiller.

And on we went . . . familiar territory for Val and me, a new look at familiar places for Ollie, and 'new ground' for David and Mary.

Looking at the map, we reckoned that we should be able to stop and moor at Denford, where the book said that there was a pub that served meals - just what we needed! Arriving there a little late in the afternoon, we found that the moorings were non-existent, it was quite difficult to get to the village, and the pub had just closed two weeks earlier! Plan B was soon hatched and put into operation. Bonnie (Ollie's other half) would come and collect Val, while the rest of us would be able to walk over the fields to 'the Woolpack' at nearby Thrapston, courtesy of a local couple showing us the way. It worked: we didn't get lost, enjoyed a really good meal there and got back to the boat OK.

In the morning, we did much the same, but this time by boat! We worked through Denford Lock and chugged the mile or so down to Thrapston Nine Arches moorings, where another boat was most conveniently just leaving, so we were able to slot in nicely. David & Mary disembarked and Ollie came to take them back to his house (and their car), ready for a long drive back down to Devon!

Meanwhile, our old friends Ian and Gwen (from India days) had made contact and could fit in a visit on the same afternoon, so we were able to welcome them for a VERY brief visit, just going for a short trip down and up the river and back - hopefully enough to make them want to come for a bit longer next time!

At this point, Dave's sore throat began to develop into something worse, but Ollie had kindly agreed to ferry us back to Blisworth to collect a large parcel of tools that had arrived after we had left, so he somehow put up with the coughing and spluttering and as far as we know suffered no ill effects! That occupied the next day . . .

To avoid overstaying our alotted time at Thrapston, we then moved on near to Oundle. We knew there were some quiet moorings where we could lie low and try to deal with the 'flu - that's obviously what it was!

For the next few days, we followed much the same pattern: travel on a bit and then rest for a couple of days. We enjoyed the new moorings at Wansford Station, with fairly frequent visits from the steam engine, and gradually made our way down to Peterborough - the furthest we had travelled this way before - but that was all going to change!

A Family Weekend

So, why did we travel up to Shrewsbury from Devon, instead of just heading back to the boat at Blisworth? Well . . .

Back in January, Val had a 'significant' birthday, and we both thought it would be good to get the 'children' together to celebrate. We quite often see one of them, sometimes two, but not often do we manage to get us all together, so we thought we would go and spend a night at a hotel and invite the 'kids' to come and join us for a meal.

By early March, we still hadn't managed it, but the three of them had now taken the idea over. Instead of us inviting them to join us for a meal, they were planning to book us all into a hotel for two nights, and pay for it all as well!

Which is how we all ended up in Shrewsbury! We travelled up from Devon on the Thursday and stayed overnight with Adam and Rachel. Shireen and Thor arrived by train in the afternoon and Jeremy (delayed by work) turned up in the evening.

We all checked into this fairly small but luxurious hotel just outside Shrewsbury, largely modern but with some lovely old parts.

After relaxing in the sun on the terrace by the moat after breakfast, we decided to visit Ludlow together, where we mooched round the open-air market and had a lunchtime pastie in front of the castle. Val needed to rest her knees but the rest of us went for a walk around the outside of the castle walls – Thor enjoyed being with his uncles!

Back to the hotel for another quality evening meal and the obligatory group photo – little Thor was already in bed!

On the Sunday morning, we all checked out and descended on Adam and Rachel's house, where Thor was introduced to the pet rats! Then on to a slightly more 'normal' meal together – Sunday lunch in one of Shrewsbury's riverside pubs – before we headed off in our various directions. We just managed to fit Shireen and Thor in the car with us, as they were going on down to London for the next weekend, and wanted to spend a little time on the (stationary) boat with us on the way.

Looking Back On Winter

Well, we can hope, anyway! As we begin to plan to get moving again, there are some highlights from our 5-month stay in Blisworth that we would like to share with you . . .

First things first, and very good news, is that all the medics seem very happy with Val's first replacement knee operation. She had the 'op' on 28th January, a little earlier than expected, and just managed to get out of the hospital in Barnstaple before it was snowed in on 2nd February. Here she is, about 3 weeks later, already down to a single crutch, and stepping out along the road in Lapford. Since then, she was signed off by both the physio and the surgeon, then swapped the crutch for a walking stick, and now doesn't even use that!

We had to stay with Colin and Jan in Lapford a little longer than we had expected, as the physios insisted that Val had to straighten her leg a bit more – 2 weeks turned into 4! We had a little drama on 14th February, as Colin and Jan went off for a week's holiday (leaving us in residence) – there was an electrical fault and small fire which brought out three fire engines and the electricity board and left us without power for two days. The fact that we were there meant that Colin and Jan didn't need to come back home for the emergency, and may have helped to ensure that the fire didn't spread. Our candlelit supper wasn't just romantic but necessary!

The weather was wintry, of course, but that gave us some great views, especially in the early morning sunshine. It also meant that the birds visited the bird table in good numbers! Here's a blackbird on Colin & Jan's patio.

Back in January, we had our share of snow and ice on the canal at Blisworth. The canal was frozen over for several days and the nearby flight of locks down to Northampton seemed to be preserved in a coating of snow. Sometimes friends ask us how we get on in the cold weather; it's much the same as being in a house, just get inside, shut the door and enjoy the central heating and the solid fuel fire! Outside DIY jobs have to be left until the warmer and drier weather, so we got on with some of the inside ones.

Recent new features inside Zindagi include a wooden shoe rack near the back door (needed this for a long time!) and lining the metal window surrounds with wooden mouldings. Although the end result does look better than the original metal surfaces, the main purpose was to reduce the condensation, and it seems to be working.

A more major task was to change our composting toilet. Without going into the details too much, we found that our 'Envirolet' never seemed to dry out as much as it should, so we have replaced it with a 'Nature's Head' model (another composting one), which separates liquids and solids 'at source'! Having successfully removed the old one and thoroughly cleaned it, the new one was a doddle to install, and we have even managed to sell the old one on eBay.

The 'Nature's Head' looks good, but the real test will be as we leave the land-based facilities of the marina and start travelling again. We'll spare you any pictures of this operation – just enjoy the winter canal scenery around Blisworth!

Having spent so long in Lapford after Val's op, we only had about 2 weeks back here in Blisworth before she was due to see the surgeon for her 6-week check up, so we were back to Devon again on 11th March and, as we said at the top of this, the surgeon was very pleased with her progress. We asked about a date for the second knee, hoping that the original estimate of 'about 3 months later' would be confirmed. Unfortunately, Val was told that she would be back on the waiting list, which means probably at least 3 to 4 months wait from mid-March. Ah well, more recovery time, and more time to cruise down the Nene, the Great Ouse and the Cam!

While down in Devon last time, Val had arranged for a medication review and had been told beforehand that no blood tests would be necessary. Then, at the review, she was told that she would need them! Too late, we were going back to Blisworth, so she arranged to have them done this time – which meant waiting about a week for the results.

Instead of imposing on Colin and Jan again (plus they were getting on with major decorating!), we went and stayed with David and Mary in Okehampton, and so had the opportunity to spend time with them and get some more tastes of Dartmoor again. The gorse was coming into prolific bloom, with its characteristic 'coconutty' smell, and the East Okement river caught its sparkles, even in its deep shady valley. One morning, Dave was surprised to get quite close to a roe buck!

The blood tests were OK, – no need to change any of Val's medication – so we could head back to Blisworth, but we didn't . . . we set off for Shrewsbury instead!

We'll tell you about that very soon . . .

A Winter Excursion

Jeremy had a week off at the end of December and the weather forecast was reasonable, so we thought we would take a short trip.
Taking the boat out of the marina for the first time in several weeks, we turned left and headed northwest through Buckby Locks towards Norton Junction. Then right onto the Leicester Section and up the Watford Locks, a flight of 7 narrow locks, including a 'staircase' of 4, rapidly climbing the hill next to Watford Gap services on the M1. Then the canal turned under the motorway and away from it. By the time we had emerged from Crick Tunnel, we were in quiet countryside and enjoying the winter scenery.
We had arranged to meet Adam and Rachel at North Kilworth but got there a bit early. All the same, we had a reception committee waiting for us. No sooner had we stopped and moored up than the local swans spotted our open hatch and decided that we really needed to feed them! Perhaps due to the general lack of visiting boats, but we have never had swans quite THIS insistent!
We wondered whether we would be able to make it down Foxton Locks that day, but the evening was drawing in and we had to moor above them. A walk down to the pub at the bottom disappointed us, as they were not serving evening meals on Boxing Day, so we went back and ate on board instead.
A fairly early start the next morning, as we wanted to go down the locks, turn around nearby and then come straight back up! In the busy summer season, this would be frowned on by the overworked lock-keepers, but there was no problem this time! There were a few other boats around but boaters were easily outnumbered by sightseers. We always enjoy this dramatic flight of ten locks (2 'staircases' of 5) and were soon into the rhythm of working them!
We dropped Adam and Rachel off back at North Kilworth, headed on to Welford Junction and turned down the Welford Arm, just getting to the moorings and turning round before it got too dark. Welford's village shop proved very useful, especially with its very early opening hours and tasty local bread, and we set off again the next day after filling up with water.
Retracing our route back to Blisworth via Watford and Buckby Locks, we found that quite a few other boats were out on the canal – we shared locks down Buckby and even found ourselves in a 'queue' as we headed south! We decided to get right back to the marina on 30th afternoon, only just having enough light to moor up, but were glad to have done so – the next morning the canal was frozen over!

Settling In

As we said before, it was rather strange to stop travelling and move into winter moorings here in Blisworth Marina but, one month on, we have already got quite used to it. Ironically, we had no sooner become static than we became more mobile by borrowing our car back from Adam. Dave got a bus into Northampton and caught a train over to Wolverhampton, where Adam's partner Rachel works, picked up the car from her and drove back. You can just see Zindagi's wind turbine on the left, and the car is parked up behind that to the left. The brick building has loos, showers and washing machine, with rubbish disposal skips next to it. All very well laid out and kept in sparkling order!

Just outside the marina entrance is Gayton Junction, where the Northampton Arm branches north-east off the main line of the Grand Union. You may remember that we went down that way last year, travelling down the River Nene to Peterborough. We didn't have enough time to go any further then, but we are provisionally planning to travel down the Nene again next year and go on through the 'Middle Level' of the Fens to join the Great Ouse and the River Cam. We have the map and guide books and have been looking at the possibilities – all part of the fun of the longer winter evenings, all snug in our little living room and making plans for more cruising!

Back in September, we kick-started the process for Val's knees to get some proper attention, getting X-rays and a referral to the consultant in Barnstaple (North Devon Hospital). Just nicely timed, Val was able to get an appointment to see him on 14th November. So we drove down, spent two nights with Joe and Wendy in Barnstaple and saw the consultant. He was very straightforward and told us that Val definitely needed replacement knee joints. In order to comply with their 'waiting list' rules, she would have to have the first one done by mid-February, so that is all due to happen – Hallelujah! Assuming all goes OK with the first one, then the second one should be scheduled for about 3 months later.

Obviously, our cruising plans will have to fit around these dates, so it probably means that we shall be here into February at least, then maybe away for a bit before mooring up for a while (here again? – who knows?). All being well, by some time in the summer we may well be able to get really mobile on the water again – great!

Meanwhile, as you will have guessed from the pictures, we have been down to see Shireen and Thor in London. As we are so close to the M1 here, it only took us just over 2 hours to get there, and less to get back. Thor is certainly growing, toddling around everywhere and 'talking' in his own language with the occasional English word thrown in! Shireen's friend Chesca has been staying with them and has become part of the family – Thor really loves her! We were with them a few days after his first birthday, and hope we might see them again sometime soon before Shireen and Frankie take off back to Scotland in the New Year. They are planning to move back there long-term, so no doubt we shall be making a few trips north before too long!

Adam went to Australia in early November for work and Rachel joined him a few days ago so that they could enjoy some holiday before flying back together in about a week. Plans include hiring a VW camper (home from home!) and doing some diving near the Great Barrier Reef. Sounds great – hope we see some photos!

Jeremy went off to Chad again today and is due back in about 3 weeks. He will probably come and spend a few days with us after that and we are provisionally planning to go for a little cruise together if the weather permits!

Back here in Blisworth, we have picked up with the friends we made in the local church, and are gradually getting more involved. We are glad we decided to be based here for the winter this year, and have been made really welcome. Hopefully we can make a useful contribution to the fellowship while we are here.

Blog entries will probably be a little sparse for a while as we are not travelling, but we shall try to update you with any important news as it happens.

A Long Short Cut

Our route out of the east side of Birmingham started to veer northwards and we were soon heading almost due north towards Tamworth. Why were we going this way on our way south? As you know, we usually add together locks and miles and calculate our journeys in 'lock-miles'. If we had gone straight through Birmingham and down the Grand Union, we would have been going down the 21 broad locks at Hatton (near Warwick) and then up 20-odd locks a few miles later. The longer route, north via Tamworth and then south near Coventry and Rugby, certainly had more miles but also substantially less locks, so the 'lock-mile' total was lower. Added to that was the opportunity to explore in Birmingham and revisit parts of the Birmingham & Fazeley and Coventry Canals that we had not visited since 1986, plus all the locks were narrow ones. A detour? Not really – more of a short cut!

Our entry to Fazeley was under the curiously mediæval-looking footbridge – spiral staicases each side, a simple walkway across. Next to it is a swing bridge which seems little used; probably only for access to the farmer's fields.

In the next few days, we (like most others in the UK) suffered a blast of wintry weather, when it was a real joy to get into the warmth after the afternoon's cruising had deteriorated into sleet and cold winds. We still enjoy the crisp winter light, especially in the mornings, but setting up the wind turbine and the TV aerial as the light begins to fail and in freezing conditions makes the boat's central heating and coal fire really welcoming!

Past the Alvecote boatyard where we hired a boat back in 1986 (now much expanded!) and on up the Atherstone locks – surprisingly attractive – before plodding through the edges of Nuneaton and Bedworth, where we found ourselves back on familiar territory again as we came to Marston Junction, where the pretty Ashby Canal branches off north-east.

The landscape round here tends to be a mixture of semi-industrial and nondescript edges of housing estates, but there were occasional highlights, especially as we approached Hawkesbury Junction with its iron bridges and quirky layout. Even Hawkesbury is surrounded by electricity stations, but we had a pleasant surprise to find 'Edna May' there with Steve and Lindsay on board. Since meeting them last year on the Stratford-on-Avon Canal, we seem to see each other quite often. The last time had been on the Llangollen only a few weeks ago. So, a slightly longer stop for a cuppa and chat before having lunch and heading south on the Oxford Canal.

Jeremy cycled out to see us at 'Stretton Stop' near Brinklow, stayed the night and cycled straight into work in Leamington the next morning. Good to see him and have the usual long chat into the night!

Only three locks between Hawkesbury and Braunston, then Braunston's own flight of six before plunging through the tunnel to Norton Junction, where we stopped for the night before going down the seven Buckby locks – the last ones before we reached Blisworth! Since Braunston, we were back in broad locks again, and some of those larger lock-gates were certainly heavy after the lighter ones on narrow locks! Coming down Buckby, it was good to be able to share locks with another boat – saves water and shares the work!

About 9 or 10 more miles brought us to Gayton Junction and Blisworth Marina. We had made informal arrangements by phone and email to stay here for 2 or 3 months this winter. When we arrived there was no-one around, so we moored up opposite the entrance ready to make contact the next day.

So here we are, static for the next couple of months, though we may take a few trips out and about. Quite strange not to be moving on – we are starting to get used to it!